All the info and parts you need to convert your TBI bike to a carb bike
Applies to all 2023-27 KTM/ HUSKY/GAS GAS 2 stroke TBI motors
This is absolutely the single best thing you can do to your TBI bike. It gets rid of all of the parts that cause problems and/or fail on these bikes. No more fouled plugs, no more worrying if your fuel pump or injectors will fail and leave you stranded. No more crankcase pressure sensor controlling if your bike runs well or not.
And if you're doing it just for the big power increase, that's great too. Every intelligent engine tuner knows a good carb, always provides more power than FI. Especially on a 2 stroke. A carb provides the instant response and works with a 2 strokes engine constantly varying pulses, in a way a throttle body and ecu dictated fueling just can't .
The cost of going to going the carb route is a basic cost of only $350. So other information on the net saying it's expensive means you are dealing with the wrong place. To convert to a carb, the ECU needs to be reprogrammed and you need 2 very specific dongles, to fool parts of the ecu. The programming and dongles are $350. This is what you need us for.
After that, you can spend whatever, but if you purchase the rest of the parts from us, it's between $1000 and $1300 . Yes, only that small amount for a ton more power and a zero problem existence.
The advantages of using a carb on the modern TBI bike
One thing to keep in mind about the modern engine, wit the electronic power valve is,
As far as power goes , the new engine is far more powerful than the older engines, with the mechanical power valves. Therefore, the electronic power valve and new cylinder, coupled with a great carb, off these advantages
1. More power than any other engine in KTM history, as far as overall power and rpm range of shear pulling power
2. You can idle down when riding, even further than you can with the FI, and smoothly pull out of it. So for guys that do tight enduro type of riding, it can't be beat
3. For overall power, for moto or desert or power in general, it makes more power from bottom to the high end of over rev.
4. Since the pressure sensor, fuel pump, fuel filters and most electronic components go away, there is just noting to fail or cause you problems anymore
5. No more fouled spark plugs or awkward running, unless something really goes wrong.
6. YOU can control fueling changes if needed now, with a 2 minute jet change, instead of not being able to control fueling.
7. You can use the map selector switch and still have 2 maps for a wilder and milder power, since the power valve and ignition timing can still be manipulated.
8. The water temp sensor still controls the temperature that the radiator fan turns on, if intact and plugged in.
The power of a carb vs injection
To the right, you see a 36 mm Keihin carb, with the new reed cage set up we make, put on the same engine of the lower power run
The bike is a 2025 KTM 300 XCW.
The reason for this, is to note the close, wide open Air Fuel ratios of the carb and the reprogrammed ECU, with the injection.
They are very close. The carb is even using a little less fuel here. This is proof of the superiority of the carb.
And the bottom end power and response is where it really shines. You can even lug it down further without it stalling
This is not a fair run vs. run though, since the new reed block we sell from Simon Injection Systems, makes stronger and crisper power on the bottom. Hence the bump in bottom power on this graph.
The real gain of the 36 carb
Both of these runs have the new reed block in the bike, which is why the power matches on the bottom. You can see the nice 3.5 hp gain on top still. Now you know the real gain and what the AFR's really are
The power increase of a 38 mm carb on a 150 XCW
A stunning 5 hp gain, on a 2025 KTM 150 XCW, by changing to a Keihin 38 PWK short body carb.
The pipe on both runs is a 150 sx pipe and the reed cage and reeds are the ones from Pinit. The rest of the XCW is stock
So what's all needed and how much?
Here is all the parts we offer for the conversion.
You actually don't need ALL of this stuff. Here is how it breaks down down on what you really need.
Ecu programming and dongles
These are the MUST haves. Obviously the ecu needs to be programmed for it and you will need a special dongle to fool the. TPS plug and the crankcase pressure sensor plug
This is $350. You will send your ecu in to us and we will fix and and send all back. Just like any ecu deal, we will have for 1-3 working days and it comes back to you on a 2 day ups, in in the usa
The only catch with this is, if your ecu has ever had any kind of TSP programmer plugged into it, it can't be fixed and you will need a new ecu. We have new ecus if needed and they run about $350 as of 11-6 2026
The Carb, of course
Lots of options here. Different people love different carbs for different reasons. This is your biggest cost normally, if you need to get a new one.
We have had the best luck, overall, with the Keihin PWK 36 and 38 mm short body carbs. You can get jets all over the world for these. There are many needles available and many people are pretty good at dialing them in
The short body carbs are more consistent, day after day than the Keihin long body carbs and are friendly for trail use and race use.
It seems that Lectron carbs are ok for just wide open moto, but not so friendly to trail ride, with rich / lean transitions.
As of 11-6-2026, A new Keihin 36 or 38 carb from us is $500 and will come with jetting that will get you close, if in the USA.
New throttle and cable
You will need a new throttle and throttle cable. There are many options here. The throttle housing from a 2018 KTM 300
works fantastic, because you can use various turn throttle cams and clamp on grips.
You can find just the old style Gunnar gasser throttles and cheap cables on Amazon as well, for much less
Price $30 to $120 We have various options in stock
New air boots
You will need new airs boots. 250 and 300's will need a new front and rear boot, depending on the carb used. A sort body carb will need front and rear boots and a long body carb, will just need the rear most likely
125 and 150's will just need the rear boot
Different models of bikes will use different air boots as well
Most rear boots are around $80 and the needed clamp around $10
The front boot from carb to reed cage is $80 if needed
A petcock is needed
You can leave the stock fuel pump in place to seal off the top of the tank, but you will have to, at a minimum, add a petcock to the bottom of the tank.
You can get one from amazon for about $20 if you want and just fasten to bottom of the tank or use the complete kit we have for $79.95
We make a tank kit for $79.95
We make a kit that allows you to remove your fuel pump and cover the hole with a larger cover. This will allow you to hold more fuel
We also make a petcock securing plate that goes with the kit. That way the petcock can't break loose or leak after a hard hit
CCP plug kit
We have a simple plug kit so you can remove the crankcase pressure sensor. You don't need it anymore and it's nice to get it out of the way.
This one is a tough, thick silicone cap and it's $14.95
You could find one on your own or just leave your ccp on as well
And that's it.
So you can really put it all together for maybe $425 if you already had access to a carb and throttle.
Even if you got all from us and needed both air boots and got thee best KTM throttle, your only in the range of
$1200 or so
Then we can help you with baseline jetting, extra jets and needles
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